This is the first in a series of articles about Costa Rica destinations that I know well from personal experience. I have visited each of these places more than once, sometimes staying only a few days and other times lingering for a full week or more. Today, I focus on one of Costa Rica’s most iconic and unforgettable regions: Arenal Volcano National Park, Lake Arenal, and the small town of La Fortuna.
For nature lovers, photographers, adventure seekers, and travelers who simply want to feel the raw power of the natural world, this region is a must. Few places on Earth offer such a dramatic combination of an active volcano, rainforest, wildlife, waterfalls, hot springs, and a welcoming rural town—all within a relatively compact and accessible area.
So let’s begin.
Arenal Volcano: From Quiet Farmland to World-Famous Wonder
Before 1968, the area surrounding Arenal Volcano was a sleepy, rural agricultural region. Small farms dotted the landscape, and life moved slowly. The volcano itself was considered dormant, having shown no significant activity for nearly 400 years.
Then, in the early morning hours of July 9, 1968, everything changed.
Arenal Volcano erupted violently, sending ash, fire, and massive boulders flying through the air. The small village of Pueblo Nuevo, located at the base of the volcano’s northern face, was buried and destroyed. The eruption marked the beginning of nearly continuous volcanic activity that would last for decades.
Interestingly, the town of La Fortuna—located about 6 kilometers away on the southern face of the volcano—was spared. Locals will tell you, half-jokingly and half-seriously, that this distance makes La Fortuna the “safer” place to stay. Whether that is true or not, one thing is certain: La Fortuna survived, and eventually thrived.
With Arenal’s frequent eruptions—spewing fire, smoke, and glowing rocks—adventure-loving tourists from around the world began to arrive, drawn by the chance to witness one of nature’s most dramatic performances. Over time, tourism transformed the region, but remarkably, it did so without destroying its natural beauty.
Where Is Arenal Volcano Located?
One of the great advantages of the Arenal region is its excellent location and accessibility.
Arenal Volcano and La Fortuna are situated in the San Carlos Valley, in the northern-central part of Costa Rica.
- From San José, the capital city, it’s about a 3½-hour drive on generally good roads.
- From Alajuela, home to the main international airport (Juan Santamaría International Airport), travel time is similar.
- From Liberia International Airport, located in the northwest, the drive is only about one hour.
- The popular northwestern Pacific beaches are also just a few hours away, making it easy to combine volcano, rainforest, and beach in one trip.
This central positioning makes Arenal an ideal stop on almost any Costa Rica itinerary.
Climate and Weather: Lush, Green, and Ever-Changing
The weather around Arenal is part of what makes the region so lush and magical—and sometimes a little unpredictable.
It rains a lot, almost year-round. This constant rainfall feeds:
- Tropical gardens
- Cascading waterfalls
- Dense rainforest
- Luxurious hot springs
The result is an environment that is green beyond imagination, filled with flowers of every description, colorful birds, and fields of papayas, pineapples, coconuts, and bananas.
That said, not every day is a washout. Many days begin with sunny mornings, followed by warm afternoon showers that cool the air. A few days each year—mostly from March to mid-April—may see little or no rain at all.
Unlike Costa Rica’s Central Valley, where seasons are more clearly defined, the Arenal region does not have a true “dry” or “rainy” season. Temperatures tend to be warm, humidity is high, but the rain provides natural relief.
Important tip:
All hotels in the area have air conditioning, which makes sleeping comfortable even on humid nights. Dress lightly, pack breathable clothing, and always carry:
- An umbrella
- A rain jacket
- Comfortable walking shoes
When Is the Best Time to Visit Arenal?
If I had to simplify the answer, I would say: Almost any month of the year.
If you have flexibility, I would personally avoid September and October, which tend to be the rainiest months. Otherwise, the region is enjoyable year-round.
- Most crowded periods:
- Mid-December through mid-April
- July through mid-August
These are peak tourist seasons, with higher prices and more visitors.
La Fortuna: Small Town, Big Personality
La Fortuna is located about 6 kilometers from the base of Arenal Volcano, along the main road that leads north toward:
- Arenal Volcano National Park
- Lake Arenal
La Fortuna is small—very small. A couple of streets in, a couple of streets out. You can’t get lost, and that’s part of its charm.
There are:
- No museums
- No public library
But there is a tree-lined central park, always bustling with tourists chatting with locals. The picturesque Catholic church, facing the park, dominates the scene and makes for a beautiful photo backdrop.
Around the park and nearby streets you’ll find:
- Small “Tico” restaurants on nearly every corner
- Souvenir shops
- Budget-friendly hotels
- Tour operators
- A busy bus stop with routes all over Costa Rica
- Banco de Costa Rica, with currency exchange and ATMs
- A health clinic
- A post office
- And perhaps the most relaxed police station you’ll ever see—there’s simply not much trouble here
One of my favorite tour operators is Sunset Tours, conveniently located right in front of the park. Their English-speaking guides are friendly, knowledgeable, and happy to explain every tour in detail—and they offer a lot of tours. I’ll cover those in depth in my next article.
How Much Time Should You Spend in La Fortuna?
La Fortuna itself doesn’t require much time:
- An hour strolling around the park
- Chatting with locals
- Booking a tour
- Visiting the grocery store
- Buying a T-shirt or souvenir
- Enjoying a typical Costa Rican meal
A plate of gallo pinto (rice and beans) with a papaya milkshake is a common choice—though I’ll admit, it’s not my favorite combination!
Once you’ve had your fill of town life, it’s time to head north—to the mighty Arenal.
How Long Should You Stay in the Arenal Area?
I always recommend at least two nights, but I strongly prefer three nights. I’ve stayed as long as seven nights, and I’ve never run out of things to do.
What makes this area so special is its flexibility:
- You can be active every day—hiking, rafting, riding horses, zip-lining
- Or you can do absolutely nothing—soaking in hot springs, listening to rain, watching the volcano
The atmosphere is deeply relaxing. Warm rain, lush vegetation, tropical flowers, colorful birds, and the nightly spectacle of Arenal’s fiery eruptions create a sense of calm mixed with awe.
Activities include:
- Horseback riding
- Bird watching
- Guided nature walks through the jungle
- Canopy and zip-line tours (“Tarzan and Jane”)
- Monkey watching—where they watch you just as much as you watch them
What Should You Budget for Arenal?
Costs depend entirely on:
- Hotel category
- Number of tours
- Dining preferences
There are many hotels and restaurants, ranging from budget to luxury, so it’s easy to plan according to your budget.
Remember:
- High season: everything costs more
- Green season: everything costs less
Generally, green season includes:
- May
- June
- Mid-September through October
- Early November
However, always check hotel websites directly. Seasonal dates and prices can change at their discretion.
Looking Ahead
In my next article, I’ll dive deeper into:
- Specific tours and activities around Arenal Volcano and Lake Arenal
- Hotel options by category
- Restaurant recommendations
- Approximate costs based on today’s prices
Until then, remember this:
Arenal, Lake Arenal, and La Fortuna offer one of the most complete Costa Rica experiences available—adventure, relaxation, nature, and culture all in one place.
Until next time… Pura Vida 🌋🌿