This article is a continuation of my ongoing series spotlighting remarkable destinations in Costa Rica and the unforgettable adventures we encounter along the way. Some places leave such a lasting impression that you feel compelled to sit down and write about them immediately—before the details soften, before the emotions fade. Mawamba Lodge, nestled along the Caribbean Tortuguero Canals, is one of those places.
My husband Ken and I spent three extraordinary days at this unique jungle retreat, located just north of the town of Limón, bordered by lush lowland tropical rainforest and long stretches of soft beige sandy beaches. From the moment we arrived, it was clear that this was not simply a place to stay—it was an immersion into one of Costa Rica’s most biologically rich and visually stunning regions.
Arrival in a Water World
Unlike most destinations, Tortuguero is not reached by roads. Instead, it reveals itself gradually—by boat, gliding through narrow canals that cut deep into the jungle. These waterways run parallel to the Caribbean Sea and then branch inland, carving winding paths through dense rainforest that seems untouched by time.
The canals are the heart and soul of Tortuguero. They define daily life, transportation, and the rhythm of nature itself. As our boat entered the waterways near Mawamba Lodge, the jungle canopy closed in around us. Towering, age-old trees leaned over the water’s edge, their branches heavy with vines, orchids, and bromeliads. Sunlight filtered softly through the leaves, creating a magical mirror effect as the green world above reflected perfectly onto the still, dark waters below.
It was a sight never to be forgotten.
Wildlife at Every Turn
One of the most astonishing aspects of Tortuguero is the sheer abundance of wildlife. You don’t need to search for it—it finds you.
During our canal excursions, we encountered white-faced capuchin monkeys leaping effortlessly through the trees, while howler monkeys announced their presence with deep, echoing calls that rolled through the forest like distant thunder. Their voices became our natural alarm clock each morning.
Along the muddy banks, we spotted crocodiles, motionless and ancient-looking, their eyes just above the waterline. Jesus Christ lizards—named for their ability to run across the surface of the water—darted from branch to branch, disappearing in flashes of green and brown.
Birdlife was everywhere. Brilliant green parrots screeched overhead, toucans perched with their unmistakable colorful beaks, and eagles soared silently above the canopy. Herons, kingfishers, and countless other species lined the waterways, making Tortuguero a paradise for birdwatchers and photographers alike.
Every turn of the canal revealed something new, something alive.
Light, Water, and the Jungle Canopy
One of the most enchanting memories from our stay was watching the way light interacted with the jungle. Early in the morning and again in the late afternoon, the sun cast a soft golden glow through the dense canopy. The light filtered gently through the leaves, illuminating floating pollen and mist in the air.
Below, the calm waters of the canals acted like a mirror, reflecting the trees, vines, and sky with breathtaking clarity. It felt like drifting through a living painting—one where every detail was constantly shifting and evolving.
This interplay of light and water created a sense of calm and wonder that is difficult to describe. It was peaceful in a way that modern life rarely allows.
A Visit to the Village of Tortuguero
Our local guide was exceptional—knowledgeable, patient, and deeply connected to the land and people of the region. One afternoon, he took us by boat to the small hamlet of Tortuguero, a village accessible only by water.
There, we visited a tiny one-room schoolhouse, a simple wooden structure that serves as the educational heart of the community. As we entered, we were greeted by smiles and cheerful hellos—in English—from the children. They were neatly dressed in uniforms: blue trousers and skirts, crisp white blouses, and polished black shoes.
The teacher, a young and attractive Costa Rican woman, welcomed us warmly and explained her teaching methods. There are no textbooks here. Instead, lessons are written on the blackboard, and the children carefully copy them into their notebooks. These notebooks then become their textbooks—a system that fosters discipline, focus, and responsibility.
It was humbling to witness such dedication to education in such a remote setting.
Life Along the Canals
The people who reside in Tortuguero make their living primarily through fishing and tourism. Life here moves at a slower, more deliberate pace. Homes are modest, often built on wooden stilts above the water to accommodate the heavy rainfall that falls year-round.
There are no cars. Transportation is entirely by small boats, which travel up and down the canals throughout the day. Sitting by the water’s edge, one can easily pass hours watching this colorful parade of boats—locals heading to work, children traveling to school, tourists heading out on wildlife tours.
Despite the simplicity of life here, there is a deep sense of community and resilience. People greet one another warmly, and there is an unmistakable pride in preserving both culture and environment.
Mawamba Lodge: Comfort in the Jungle
Mawamba Tour Company owns and operates Mawamba Lodge, and I cannot recommend it highly enough. The lodge strikes a rare balance between comfort and authenticity, offering first-class service while remaining respectful of its natural surroundings.
The accommodations were comfortable and thoughtfully designed. Our room featured double beds, ceiling fans, and hot water—a welcome luxury after long days exploring the jungle. The sounds of nature replaced the usual noise of modern life, making sleep deep and restful.
Meals at the lodge were another highlight. The gourmet Costa Rican cuisine was delicious, fresh, and beautifully prepared. Each meal felt like a celebration of local flavors, featuring tropical fruits, fresh seafood, rice, beans, and creative regional dishes.
Above all, the hospitality was genuine. The staff went out of their way to ensure that every guest felt welcomed and cared for, creating an atmosphere that was both relaxed and refined.
Night Tour: Nesting Green Turtles
One of the most unforgettable experiences of our stay was the night tour to see nesting green turtles, offered as an optional excursion.
For an additional $30 per person, we joined a small group led by a trained guide. Strict rules are enforced to protect the turtles: only red-filtered flashlights are allowed, and no photography is permitted.
Walking quietly along the beach under a starlit sky, we soon encountered several enormous green sea turtles hauling themselves ashore. Watching these ancient creatures dig into the sand and lay their eggs was deeply moving. They were massive—prehistoric giants performing a ritual unchanged for millions of years.
It was a powerful reminder of the importance of conservation and the fragile balance of life along Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast.
Costs and Practical Information
Mawamba Lodge offers a variety of all-inclusive packages, and prices vary depending on the season. It is best to check their official website for current rates.
- Our cost: $350 per person
- Duration: 3 days / 2 nights
- Included:
- Round-trip transportation from San José via comfortable motor coach
- Canal tours
- All meals
- Comfortable accommodations
- Extra:
- Night turtle tour: $30 per person
Considering what is included, the value is exceptional.
A Place That Stays With You
As our time at Mawamba Lodge came to an end and we began the journey back to San José, I felt a familiar mix of gratitude and reluctance. Tortuguero is not just a destination—it is an experience that stays with you long after you leave.
The canals, the jungle, the wildlife, the people—all combine to create something rare and deeply meaningful. This remote corner of Costa Rica offers a glimpse into a world where nature still reigns supreme, and where human life exists in harmony with the environment.
For those seeking adventure, beauty, and authenticity, Mawamba Lodge and the Tortuguero Canals are truly unforgettable.
And for Ken and me, it is a place we hope to return to—again and again.