Just as the sun rose above the horizon, we set out quietly on an early morning canoe journey on Lake Arenal, located near the small town of La Fortuna and the legendary Arenal Volcano. The lake lay calm and glassy, reflecting soft hues of pink, gold, and pale blue as dawn slowly unfolded. We stepped into an old red wooden canoe, its paint worn smooth by years of use, a vessel that seemed perfectly suited for a journey into stillness and reflection.
As the canoe drifted away from the shoreline, the sun cast a long, haunting shadow of the mighty volcano across the southern face of the lake. The volcano stood silent and imposing, its perfect cone rising above the surrounding rainforest like a guardian watching over the land. In that moment, time seemed suspended. The only sounds that broke the profound silence were the gentle splash of our paddles and the distant calls of cranes flying overhead.
This was not a hurried tour. This was a journey meant to be felt, absorbed, and remembered.
A Quiet Beginning on Sacred Waters
We paddled slowly along the edges of the lake, staying close to the shoreline where the rainforest meets the water. The canoe swayed gently with each stroke, rocking back and forth in rhythm with the morning breeze. A soft mist hovered above the surface of the lake, blurring the boundary between water and sky.
From the tall rainforest canopy came the unmistakable calls of howler monkeys, deep and resonant, echoing through the trees like ancient chants. Their voices carried far across the water, a reminder that we were guests in a living, breathing ecosystem.
Our guide, an amiable middle-aged Costa Rican man, navigated the canoe with practiced ease. He spoke in gentle, broken English, pointing out birds, trees, and distant landmarks with quiet pride.
“Yes,” he said softly, gesturing toward the volcano, “visitors come here to the mighty volcano to experience its special powers… its fields of positive energy. It uplifts one’s mood and raises the senses.”
Whether one believes in energy fields or not, there was no denying the profound calm and clarity that seemed to surround us on the lake.
Rain, Light, and the Photographer’s Eye
As we moved farther along the shoreline, warm drops of tropical rain began to sprinkle the surface of the lake. Each drop created a small ripple that spread outward in perfect circles. The rain was gentle, refreshing, and fleeting—typical of Costa Rica’s summer showers.
Despite the drizzle, we stayed focused on our purpose: to photograph and film this unique adventure. The conditions were ideal. Soft morning light filtered through the clouds, enhancing colors and textures without harsh glare. It felt like stepping into another dimension—quiet, surreal, and deeply immersive.
And photograph we did.
Birdlife Along the Shore
The shoreline came alive with birds. Cranes, wood storks, herons, and egrets stood motionless along the water’s edge, their reflections mirrored perfectly in the lake. Some took flight as we passed, their wings beating slowly, gracefully, while others simply watched us with calm curiosity.
Above us, a flock of large green parrots swarmed overhead, their sharp calls piercing the morning air. They flew in tight formation, bright flashes of emerald against the gray sky, reminding us of Costa Rica’s extraordinary biodiversity.
For birdwatchers and photographers alike, Lake Arenal is a treasure. The combination of open water, forest edge, and wetlands creates ideal conditions for a wide variety of species, many of which are difficult to observe elsewhere.
A Family of Howler Monkeys
As we paddled closer to the treeline, our guide motioned for us to slow down. There, just above us, was a family of black howler monkeys. Adults lounged across thick branches while babies clung tightly to their mothers’ backs. One young monkey swung playfully from branch to branch, stopping now and then to peer down at us with wide, curious eyes.
This moment alone made the trip unforgettable. To observe wildlife from the quiet of a canoe—without engines, noise, or crowds—is a privilege. The monkeys seemed unbothered by our presence, continuing their morning routine as if we were simply another part of the landscape.
For a photographer, it was a dream come true. Click after click, memories were captured that would last a lifetime.
The Ceiba Tree: A Sacred Giant
As the current gently carried us westward, our attention was drawn to the mountains rising beyond the lake. Just over a low hill, towering above the surrounding forest, stood a giant Ceiba tree.
Its massive trunk and sprawling branches commanded reverence. The Ceiba is so tall and majestic that Guatemala chose it as their national tree, and to the ancient Mayans, it was known as the sacred tree of life. They believed it connected the underworld, the earth, and the heavens—a living bridge between worlds.
Standing there in the canoe, gazing at this ancient giant, it was easy to understand why it held such spiritual significance. The camera clicked again and again, capturing an image that felt both stunning and mystical.
Life Along the Lake
As we continued along the shoreline, signs of human life appeared—but gently, respectfully integrated into the landscape. Small lakeside hotels dotted the shore, their guests stepping out onto balconies or docks to wave as we passed.
Further inland, horses and cows grazed in verdant green pastures, a reminder of Costa Rica’s agricultural roots and a way of life that has endured for generations. Pineapple fields, cattle ranches, and small farms coexist here with tourism and conservation, creating a balance that defines much of rural Costa Rica.
It felt like traveling through time—past and present blending seamlessly.
Why a Canoe Trip Is Special
Unlike larger motorized boats, a canoe allows for silence. You move at nature’s pace. Wildlife remains undisturbed. Conversations are hushed. Every sound—the splash of a paddle, the rustle of leaves, the distant call of a bird—becomes meaningful.
For those seeking a deeper connection with Costa Rica’s natural beauty, a canoe trip on Lake Arenal offers something rare: intimacy with the landscape.
Practical Information for Visitors
- Cost: We paid $40 for several hours in a private canoe.
- Alternative boats: Larger covered boats that hold around 30 people are available and are less expensive, but they do not offer the same quiet, personal experience.
- Location: To arrange the tour, go north out of La Fortuna approximately 6 miles. Lake Arenal will be on your left. Continue a short distance until you see the boats docked along the shore.
- Booking: You can stop by in person to make arrangements for the following day, or if a boat is available, you may be able to go immediately.
- Best time of day:
- Early morning for wildlife photography and calm waters
- Late afternoon (sunset tours) for dramatic light and reflections
A Journey That Stays With You
As we paddled back toward shore, the rain stopped, the clouds lifted slightly, and the volcano reemerged in quiet majesty. The lake shimmered, birds continued their calls, and the rainforest stood timeless and eternal.
This canoe trip was more than a tour—it was a journey into the soul of Costa Rica. Peaceful, beautiful, and deeply moving.
I left Lake Arenal with a sense of gratitude and a longing to return. Some experiences do not fade with time; they grow stronger in memory. This was one of them.
So if you travel to Costa Rica, take the time to slow down. Rise early. Paddle quietly. Let the rainforest speak.
And allow Lake Arenal to reveal its magic to you—one gentle stroke at a time.
