One of the very best ways to experience Costa Rica’s Alajuela to Poas Volcano by Car, traveling at your own pace along scenic roads that wind through small villages, farmland, and lush mountain landscapes. Driving allows you to stop when something catches your eye, wander through a town square, chat with locals, and witness daily life unfolding in real time. This is how you discover the real Costa Rica, far beyond the tourist brochures.
My husband Ken and I decided to do exactly that on a beautiful January morning. The sun was shining, the air was crisp, and the mountains called to us. We set out early from Alajuela, Costa Rica’s second-largest city, heading north toward Poás Volcano along what is known as the Touristic Route Alajuela–Poás Volcano. While this is not exactly a “back road,” it is one of the most scenic drives in the Central Valley and offers a perfect balance of accessibility and authentic rural charm.
Leaving Alajuela: From City to Countryside
Alajuela is lively and bustling, but it doesn’t take long before the urban landscape gives way to open fields and rolling hills. As we left the city behind, the traffic thinned, the air cooled slightly, and the scenery transformed into a patchwork of coffee plantations, dairy farms, and strawberry fields.
January is peak coffee harvest season in Costa Rica, and the hillsides were alive with activity. Hundreds of coffee plants surrounded us, each heavy with dark red berries ready to be picked. Workers moved methodically through the rows, baskets strapped around their waists. One young Costa Rican woman caught my attention—her wide-brimmed sun hat and solid white clothing shielded her from the tropical sun. It was a moment that perfectly captured the quiet dignity and beauty of rural life, and my camera was quick to preserve it.
Small Villages and Simple Pleasures
A few miles up the road, we came upon a tiny village nestled beside a large fern farm. The locals—only about two hundred residents—call this place Fraijanes. We pulled over and decided to stretch our legs and explore.
At the heart of the village was a small park and a tranquil lagoon. Mothers sat on benches with their babies, enjoying the warmth of the morning sun. Older children kicked a soccer ball back and forth, their laughter echoing through the air. Life here moved slowly and peacefully, guided by the rhythm of nature rather than the clock.
This is one of the joys of driving in Costa Rica: discovering places you would never find on a tour bus schedule.
Roadside Markets and Local Crafts
Continuing uphill, we soon spotted a small roadside stand, and of course, we had to stop. The market offered fresh strawberries, locally made sour cream, and farmers’ cheese, all produced in the surrounding countryside. Nearby, a local Costa Rican artist displayed his hand-carved wooden artwork.
We purchased a beautifully carved and hand-painted toucan, a perfect souvenir and reminder of our journey. These small interactions—buying directly from farmers and artisans—add depth and meaning to travel. You are not just passing through; you are participating in the local economy and culture.
Alpine Scenery and Rural Life
As we climbed higher, the scenery became even more spectacular. I felt as though I had stepped into a storybook landscape—something reminiscent of Heidi and her grandfather in the Swiss Alps. Rolling green hills stretched in every direction, dotted with white dairy cows marked by large black patches. They grazed lazily along the slopes, looking as if they had wandered straight out of a Norman Rockwell painting.
It was Sunday, and people of all ages were out enjoying their day. Families strolled along the roadside dressed in their best clothes, heading to reunions or church gatherings. Couples walked hand in hand, enjoying time together. Because sidewalks are rare in rural Costa Rica, the road itself becomes a shared space.
We drove slowly, and rightly so. Children played ball in the road. Chickens wandered freely. Ducks, cows, and even horses occasionally appeared in our path. In Costa Rica, roads belong to vehicles, people, animals, and everything in between. Patience is not just recommended—it is essential.
Approaching Poás Volcano National Park
As we neared the entrance to Poás Volcano National Park, the landscape changed dramatically. Massive ferns—some as tall as trees—leaned over the road. Plants with huge umbrella-like leaves, often called Poor Man’s Umbrella, lined the walkways. Wildflowers bloomed in every shade imaginable.
January is one of the best months to visit Poás Volcano, and we were rewarded with clear skies. The crater was fully visible, revealing a surreal, gurgling pool of blue water below. Steam rose gently from the surface, a reminder of the immense geothermal power beneath our feet.
Standing there, breathing in the cool mountain air, we felt incredibly lucky. Poás is one of the few volcanoes in the world that can be accessed so easily, yet it still feels raw and powerful.
A Delicious Lunch at Chubascos
After exploring the volcano, we headed back down the mountain and stopped for lunch at a charming wooden house surrounded by a lush garden. The restaurant, Chubascos, is family-owned and operated and serves traditional Costa Rican cuisine made with local ingredients.
In the center of the garden grew a fascinating plant known as Bell of the Night, with pink-and-white flowers shaped like upside-down bells. According to an old indigenous legend, drinking a tea made from the boiled flowers can cause hallucinations. We admired the plant—but wisely chose to stick with lunch.
After much deliberation, we ordered the house specialty: a plate-sized homemade corn tortilla, topped with shredded beef, fresh tomatoes, and Chubascos’ own secret sauce. It was simple, hearty, and absolutely delicious.
For dessert, we indulged in cheesecake made from locally processed cheese and topped with strawberries grown just next door. With so many dairy cows in the region, it’s no surprise that this area produces some of Costa Rica’s finest cheeses.
Coffee Culture: A Visit to a Traditional Coffee Plantation
Our final stop of the day was a family-owned coffee plantation that has been operating for three generations. By this point, we were tired—but incredibly glad we stopped.
The guided tour walked us through the entire coffee-making process, from the coffee plant to the finished cup. The guides were knowledgeable and passionate, and the setting—right in the middle of a working plantation—was stunning. It was a true education and deepened our appreciation for one of Costa Rica’s most important exports.
Ending the Day in the Mountains
As the sun began to set, we made our way back to Hotel Buena Vista, located about four miles north of Poás along the same scenic road. The hotel sits high in the mountains and offers sweeping views of the Central Valley and Poás Volcano.
We chose a second-floor room for the view, and as cool mountain breezes drifted across the patio, we reflected on the day. It had been filled with beauty, discovery, good food, and meaningful encounters—everything travel should be.
With grateful hearts and tired smiles, we said buenos noches, knowing this scenic drive would remain one of our favorite Costa Rican memories.
Why Drive from Alajuela to Poás Volcano?
- Stunning scenery
- Easy access from San José and Alajuela
- Coffee plantations, farms, and villages
- Excellent food stops
- One of Costa Rica’s most accessible volcanoes
If you want to see Costa Rica beyond the tourist resorts, this scenic drive is an experience not to be missed.