There are places in Costa Rica that feel untouched by time, places where nature sets the rhythm of daily life and modern distractions quietly fade away. Mawamba Lodge and the small village of Tortuguero are among those rare destinations. Remote, lush, and deeply connected to the natural world, this region on Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast offers travelers an experience unlike anywhere else in the country.
To visit Tortuguero is to step into a living ecosystem where rainforest, river, canals, ocean, wildlife, and community exist in delicate balance. At the heart of this experience lies Mawamba Lodge, a place that is not just a hotel, but a gateway into one of Costa Rica’s most extraordinary environments.
Mawamba Lodge: A Special Place on Costa Rica’s Canals
Mawamba Lodge is truly a very special place, and its uniqueness begins with its setting. The lodge is located between the Caribbean Sea and the Tortuguero River, surrounded by remote jungle and accessible only by boat or small aircraft. There are no highways, no traffic noise, and no urban distractions—just water, forest, and wildlife.
Guests awaken each morning to the sounds of the rainforest: the calls of tropical songbirds, the rustle of leaves, and the distant flow of water through the canals. This natural soundtrack sets the tone for a stay that is peaceful, immersive, and deeply connected to nature.
The grounds of Mawamba Lodge are beautifully maintained and filled with exotic tropical flowers and plants not commonly seen in other parts of Costa Rica. Everything feels vibrant and alive, nourished by the warm temperatures, rich soil, and constant rainfall that define this region.
Dining Surrounded by One Thousand Shades of Green
One of the most memorable aspects of Mawamba Lodge is its open-air restaurant. Here, guests dine surrounded by what feels like one thousand shades of green, with the rainforest pressing in from all sides. There are no walls separating you from nature—only the soft breeze, filtered sunlight, and the sounds of birds and insects.
The food is delicious, fresh, and very typical Costa Rican. Meals often include rice, beans, fresh fish, chicken, vegetables, and tropical fruits. Natural drinks made from fresh pineapple and papaya are refreshing highlights, perfectly suited to the warm Caribbean climate.
As you sit and enjoy your meal, butterflies and hummingbirds of every color flit nearby, adding movement and magic to the experience. Dining here feels less like eating at a restaurant and more like being part of the rainforest itself.
Relaxation in the Jungle
After a morning exploring canals or walking along the beach, the swimming pool at Mawamba Lodge becomes a welcome retreat. Surrounded by jungle foliage, it is the perfect place to cool off from the tropical heat. Lounging poolside, listening to the sounds of nature, time seems to slow down.
Just a short walk from the lodge brings you to a long stretch of black sand beach, where the Caribbean Sea crashes loudly against the shore. This beach is not only dramatic and beautiful—it is also one of the most important nesting sites in the world for green sea turtles.
Witnessing the Magic of Sea Turtles
Visiting Tortuguero during July is especially magical. This is one of the peak months for turtle nesting, and guests staying at Mawamba Lodge are almost guaranteed the chance to witness large green sea turtles coming ashore at night to lay their eggs.
Watching a turtle slowly emerge from the ocean, dig a nest, and lay her eggs is a humbling and unforgettable experience. If one were able to stay for ten weeks, they could also witness the incredible moment when baby turtles hatch, pushing their way out of the sand and racing toward the sea. It is a powerful reminder of the fragile beauty of nature and the importance of conservation.
Exploring the Tortuguero Canals
One of the biggest highlights of staying at Mawamba Lodge is the tour of the Tortuguero Canals. These canals form part of Tortuguero National Park, which was created to preserve this unique ecosystem of freshwater lagoons, creeks, wetlands, and secondary rainforest.
Because of Tortuguero’s remoteness, wildlife here is abundant and relatively undisturbed. As boats glide quietly through narrow waterways, visitors often encounter:
- Monkeys swinging through the trees
- Crocodiles resting along the banks
- Turtles basking on logs
- Jesus Christ lizards running across the water’s surface
- An astonishing variety of birds
The canals feel like a natural highway through the jungle, offering intimate encounters with wildlife that are difficult to find elsewhere.
The Little Village of Tortuguero: A Step Back in Time
Only about one mile from Mawamba Lodge lies the small village of Tortuguero, a place that truly feels like stepping back in time. Situated between the Caribbean Sea and the Tortuguero River, the village is accessible only by boat and is entirely free of cars.
Narrow dirt pathways lead through the community, passing quaint wooden houses painted in bright hues of blue, yellow, and red. These colors reflect the cultural influence of the neighboring Caribbean Islands and give the village a cheerful, welcoming feel.
A Simple School and a Close-Knit Community
One path leads to the blue and white one-room schoolhouse, where about twenty-five students, from grades one through six, attend morning classes taught by a single teacher. It is a touching reminder of how education functions in remote areas—simple, personal, and deeply rooted in community.
Nearby, the school boat docks along the river, having brought the children upriver for the school day. The students arrive neatly dressed in navy and white uniforms, their presence adding life and rhythm to the village.
Life by the Ocean
Walking further through Tortuguero, paths eventually lead to the dark sand beaches, where the roar of the ocean dominates the soundscape. At night, these same beaches become nesting grounds for sea turtles, making the village one of the most important conservation areas in the country.
Tortuguero is a self-sustaining community, shaped by its isolation from the outside world. Tourism is the primary source of income, but residents also fish, hunt, and grow much of their own food. Fruits such as bananas, papaya, pineapple, coconuts, and mangos grow wild, and nearly every yard has a small vegetable garden.
A Life Without Hurry
Along the river’s edge, several small hotels and lodges cater to visitors. It is common to see tourists sitting quietly by the water, sipping fresh coconut juice straight from the shell, watching boats pass by.
There is no rush here. No super highways. No jet airplanes. No traffic noise. Only the sounds of the river, the ocean waves, the rainforest, and the rain itself.
Fresh fish are plentiful in the unpolluted river, clean drinking water flows from natural springs, and rain falls year-round, keeping the land lush and fertile. Hunger is not a concern here—nature provides generously.
With no roads and no cars, transportation is by foot or boat. Dirt pathways replace streets, and life moves at a pace dictated by daylight, tides, and weather. Tortuguero is a true example of a real-life self-sustaining community.
A Privilege to Experience
As visitors, we are privileged to take a glimpse into this way of life—a lifestyle centered on simplicity, nature, and community. Many travelers leave Tortuguero wishing they could take a little of this calm, balance, and connection back home with them.
Mawamba Lodge and the village of Tortuguero together create an experience that is not just a vacation, but a lesson in living with nature rather than against it.
Final Thoughts
In a country filled with incredible destinations, Mawamba Lodge and Tortuguero stand out as truly unique. They offer travelers a rare opportunity to experience Costa Rica as it once was—and, in some ways, still is. Wild, remote, beautiful, and deeply human.
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