High in the cool, misty mountains of northwestern Costa Rica lies Monteverde, a place that feels suspended between earth and sky. Today it is world-famous for its cloud forests, rare wildlife, and commitment to conservation. Yet long before Monteverde became one of Costa Rica’s most visited eco-tourism destinations, it was shaped by a small group of determined pioneers whose values still define the community today: the Quakers.
Monteverde’s story is not just about forests and birds; it is a story of peace, cooperation, simplicity, and respect for nature. To truly understand Monteverde, one must first understand why and how this unique community came to exist.
The Arrival of the Quakers
Monteverde was settled in the early 1950s by eleven Quaker families from Alabama, USA. These families were young, idealistic, and deeply committed to their religious beliefs. One of their strongest convictions was opposition to military service. At that time, the United States required young men to register for the draft, and the Korean War was underway. The Quakers, who believe firmly in pacifism and non-violence, began searching for a country where they could live without the moral conflict posed by a military system.
Costa Rica offered exactly what they were looking for. In 1948, Costa Rica permanently abolished its army, choosing instead to invest in education, healthcare, and social welfare. This bold decision made Costa Rica one of the most peaceful nations in the world and deeply attractive to conscientious objectors.
The families traveled throughout the country—from the Panama border, up through the Central Valley, and across to the Nicoya Peninsula—searching for the perfect place to settle. Eventually, they found a remote, sparsely populated mountainous area with cool temperatures, abundant rainfall, rich soil, and breathtaking natural beauty. They named it Monteverde, meaning “Green Mountain.”
Building a Community from the Ground Up
When the Quakers arrived, Monteverde was isolated and difficult to reach. Roads were rough or nonexistent, electricity was limited, and supplies were scarce. But the land was fertile, and the settlers brought with them valuable farming skills, strong work ethics, and a deep sense of cooperation.
They began by planting gardens to grow their own food and raising livestock. Dairy farming soon became central to the community’s survival. The Quakers started producing cheese, using traditional methods they had brought from the United States. Over time, this cheese became famous throughout Costa Rica and remains an important local product today.
Homes were built by hand using logs cut and sawn from the surrounding forest. True to Quaker tradition, they relied on a communal system known as “working bees.” When a family needed to build a house, neighbors came together to help raise it. This cooperative spirit strengthened bonds and ensured that no one was left to struggle alone.
Education and Values: The School of Friends
Education was a top priority for the Quakers. Soon after settling, they founded a school called the School of Friends, which is still operating today. The school was designed not only to provide academic instruction but also to instill strong moral values.
The Quakers believed that education should nurture the mind, body, and spirit. Children were taught honesty, responsibility, equality, and respect for others. Environmental education was also central to the curriculum. Long before conservation became a global movement, the Quakers believed that children must learn how to protect natural resources and live in harmony with the land.
They promoted a simple lifestyle, where family came first and material possessions were secondary. These values continue to influence Monteverde’s culture today.
Integration with Costa Rican Neighbors
Unlike many isolated expatriate communities, the Quakers made a conscious effort to integrate with local Costa Ricans. They believed strongly that there should be no barriers of race, creed, or nationality. Their Costa Rican neighbors welcomed them warmly, helping them adapt to local conditions, farming practices, and customs.
This mutual respect and cooperation laid the foundation for a truly blended community. Today, Monteverde is a mix of Quaker descendants, Costa Rican families, and people from around the world, all coexisting with a shared commitment to sustainability and peace.
Monteverde Today: From Farming to Eco-Tourism
Today, approximately 800 Quakers still call Monteverde home. While dairy farming and coffee production remain important, tourism has become the region’s primary economic activity.
Despite its famously difficult access roads—often steep, unpaved, and bumpy—Monteverde attracts up to 200,000 visitors per year. Travelers are drawn by its cool climate, lush forests, and unparalleled biodiversity.
The Quakers were instrumental in shifting Monteverde toward conservation-based tourism. Their early recognition of the importance of protecting the forest helped shape the area’s future.
The Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve
The crown jewel of the region is the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve (Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde). This protected area is one of the most important cloud forests in the world.
Founded in 1972 by scientist George Powell and Quaker Wilford Guindon, the reserve was created to protect the watershed and extraordinary biodiversity of the region. It now encompasses thousands of acres of primary rainforest, meaning the forest has never been logged and contains trees hundreds of years old.
The reserve receives an astonishing 118 inches of rainfall per year, creating the misty, ethereal conditions that define a cloud forest. Moisture from the clouds condenses on leaves and branches, nourishing the ecosystem even during drier periods.
There are nine main trails, totaling about 13 kilometers, well marked and suitable for most visitors, though some include steep inclines.
The Splendid Quetzal: Jewel of the Cloud Forest
One of the most sought-after sightings in Monteverde is the Resplendent Quetzal. I visited in March, one of the best months to see this extraordinary bird, as it is mating season.
The quetzal is a large bird with brilliant blue-green plumage, a deep red breast, and long, flowing tail feathers. It is elusive and shy, but our knowledgeable guide knew where it was nesting.
For the ancient Mayans and Aztecs, the quetzal was sacred. Its feathers symbolized freedom and wealth and were worn only by royalty and priests during ceremonies. Seeing one in the wild is considered a once-in-a-lifetime experience for many birdwatchers.
The beautiful photograph often associated with the quetzal was taken by wildlife photographer Scott Wilkinson, whose work can be viewed at:
Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve
We also visited the nearby Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve, located at 5,600 feet above sea level. This reserve offers about 10 kilometers of trails, though we chose a shorter, easier route.
The weather was cool and damp, with a steady mist in the air. Rain jackets were essential. The forest here is stunning, filled with towering trees draped in moss and bromeliads blooming in bright reds and pinks.
While we hoped to see another quetzal, luck was not on our side that day. They are notoriously difficult to spot. We did, however, hear many birds and glimpsed a howler monkey in the distance, his deep calls echoing through the forest.
Primary vs. Secondary Cloud Forest
Visitors often ask about the difference between the two reserves.
- Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve is a primary rainforest, with extremely old, massive trees that have never been cut.
- Santa Elena Cloud Forest is a secondary rainforest, meaning the forest was disturbed in the past and later regenerated.
Both are beautiful and rich in biodiversity, but the Monteverde reserve offers a sense of ancient grandeur that is truly unforgettable.
A Legacy of Peace and Conservation
Monteverde is far more than a tourist destination. It is a living example of how values can shape a place. The Quakers’ commitment to peace, education, community, and environmental stewardship laid the foundation for what Monteverde is today.
As you walk through the misty trails, listen to the call of distant birds, or rest in a lodge while rain taps softly on a tin roof, you can still feel the spirit of those first settlers—people who chose simplicity over conflict and cooperation over competition.
Monteverde stands as a powerful reminder that living lightly on the land is not just possible—it is profoundly rewarding.