Costa Rica is famous for its volcanoes, rain forests, and breathtaking natural wonders, but few places inspire as much awe and mystery as Tenorio Volcano National Park and its most celebrated attraction, the Río Celeste, often called the “Blue River.” Hidden deep in the northern region of the country, this park offers visitors a rare opportunity to experience raw, untamed nature and witness one of Costa Rica’s true natural miracles.
On a recent trip, we set out to explore this remarkable national park, drawn by stories and photographs of the river’s surreal sky-blue color. What we found was far more impressive than we had imagined—a place of lush jungle, steaming geothermal features, challenging trails, and an unforgettable river whose color seems almost unreal.
Getting There: A Journey into Northern Costa Rica
Tenorio Volcano National Park is located in northern Costa Rica, far from the bustling cities and popular beach towns. Reaching it is part of the adventure. For our trip, we rented a 4×4 Suzuki Jimmy, a wise choice considering the road conditions in this region.
Using the road map provided by the car rental agency, we headed north on the Inter-American Highway (Highway 1). Our journey began near the San José International Airport, and from there we drove north toward Cañas, a drive that took us several hours. Once we reached the Cañas exit, we continued for about six more miles before turning right toward Bijagua, a small rural town nestled near the park.
From Bijagua, it is roughly 10 miles to the entrance of Tenorio Volcano National Park. Be aware that signage is limited, and it is very easy to miss a turn. We stopped more than once to ask for directions, which is quite common in Costa Rica and always met with friendly assistance. This is one place where patience, a sense of adventure, and a reliable vehicle are essential.
The Crown Jewel: Río Celeste, the “Blue River”
The primary reason most visitors come to Tenorio Volcano National Park is to see the Río Celeste, one of Costa Rica’s most extraordinary natural wonders. The river’s stunning light-blue color almost defies belief, looking as though someone poured turquoise paint into the water.
The color of Río Celeste is not a trick of light or a photographic illusion. It is the result of a fascinating natural phenomenon. Beneath the riverbed, sulfur gases rise from volcanic activity, while a nearby stream delivers carbonated calcium into the river. At the point where these waters meet, a chemical reaction causes minerals to precipitate and scatter sunlight in a way that produces the river’s brilliant blue hue.
Standing before the Río Celeste for the first time is a moment you never forget. The water glows against the surrounding green jungle, creating a striking contrast that feels almost magical. It is truly one of Costa Rica’s hidden treasures.
A Park Shaped by Fire and Water
Tenorio Volcano National Park is more than just the Río Celeste. The park protects a vast area shaped by volcanic activity and tropical rainfall. Throughout the park, you will find thermal springs, small geysers, rivers, waterfalls, lagoons, and sweeping panoramic views of untouched rain forest.
Steam rises from cracks in the earth, reminding visitors that the Tenorio Volcano is still very much alive beneath the surface. These geothermal features add to the sense of mystery and power that defines the park.
Wildlife here is present but often elusive. The dense rain forest provides shelter for animals that prefer to stay hidden when humans are nearby. While hiking, we hoped to spot a puma, one of the park’s most impressive residents, but like many visitors, we were reminded that these big cats retreat deep into the forest at the first sign of people.
That said, the forest is far from silent. We heard the unmistakable roar of howler monkeys echoing through the trees and were lucky enough to see them swinging overhead. Birds, insects, and frogs add to the constant soundtrack of the jungle.
The Hike: Challenging but Rewarding
Visiting Río Celeste requires a hike, and it is important to understand that this is not a casual stroll. The trail through Tenorio Volcano National Park is challenging, with sections that are steep, uneven, and muddy—especially during the rainy season.
Our hike took several hours, and while the trail is well maintained, some parts are rugged and demand good physical condition. We were fortunate to visit during January, in the heart of the dry season, when rainfall is much lower. Even then, the humidity made the hike feel warm and demanding.
The temperature was around 75°F, but the combination of humidity and physical exertion made it feel hotter. I was glad I wore a cotton T-shirt and cotton shorts, along with very comfortable tennis shoes. Proper footwear is essential here, as the trail can be slippery and uneven.
The Waterfall and the Blue Pool
The final stretch of the trail leading to the Río Celeste waterfall is steep, and long before you see it, you can hear the powerful rush of water. When we finally reached the bottom, the view took our breath away.
Before us was a sky-blue pool of water, fed by a cascading waterfall. The color was even more vivid than we had imagined. Words truly cannot describe the beauty of this place—it must be seen to be believed.
A park ranger was nearby and explained where swimming is permitted. It is important to note that swimming is not allowed everywhere, and regulations may change. The ranger also mentioned that the long-term effects of the river’s minerals on the human body are not fully understood, which is why swimming is restricted to certain areas.
Unfortunately, I had not brought a bathing suit, but even without swimming, the experience of standing beside the Río Celeste was unforgettable.
Visiting During the Rainy Season
If you visit Tenorio Volcano National Park during the rainy season (May through November), be prepared for muddy trails and wet conditions. Your shoes and feet will likely get muddy, and rain can arrive suddenly.
During these months, it is essential to bring:
- A rain jacket or poncho
- Waterproof or quick-drying footwear
- Extra socks
- A sense of humor and adventure
That said, many people visit during the rainy season and still have wonderful experiences. If you start your hike early in the morning, you are often rewarded with several hours of sunshine before afternoon showers roll in.
Guided Tours and Day Trips
If you prefer not to drive or want a more structured experience, you can visit Río Celeste by purchasing a day tour. Guided tours often include transportation, a knowledgeable guide, and sometimes meals.
One option is to contact Sunset Tours Costa Rica, which offers excursions to Tenorio Volcano National Park. You can learn more at:
A guided tour can be especially helpful for first-time visitors, as guides provide valuable insight into the geology, wildlife, and ecology of the park.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Tenorio Volcano National Park is during the dry season, from mid-December through March. Trails are less muddy, the weather is more predictable, and hiking conditions are generally better.
However, the park is open year-round, and many travelers visit during the green season. The rain forest is at its most lush during these months, and the Río Celeste remains just as stunning.
What to Wear and Bring
To fully enjoy your visit, be sure to come prepared. Recommended items include:
- Very good tennis shoes or comfortable hiking boots
- Cool clothing, such as cotton T-shirts and shorts or slacks
- Sunscreen
- Rain jacket or poncho
- Bottled water
- Camera
- Small backpack
While I did not encounter mosquitoes on our visit, I always carry mosquito repellent just in case. A personal favorite is Avon Skin So Soft repellent cream, which works well in tropical environments.
A Place That Stays with You
Tenorio Volcano National Park and the Río Celeste are not just destinations—they are experiences that stay with you long after you leave. The combination of volcanic energy, pristine rain forest, and the surreal beauty of the Blue River makes this park one of Costa Rica’s most memorable natural attractions.
If you have visited Tenorio Volcano National Park or Río Celeste, I would love for you to share your experience with our readers. Simply click on the comments section at the end of this article and tell us about your adventure.
For travelers seeking something truly unique, Tenorio Volcano National Park is an unforgettable journey into the heart of Costa Rica’s natural magic.