Helpful facts about living and retiring in Costa Rica, shared by Charlotte Nina Cabezas Creed, a farm girl from down-home Alabama, United States of America.
A Southern Farm Girl Meets Costa Rica
I first came to Costa Rica in 1968, a newlywed, starry-eyed young bride. I did not speak a single word of Spanish—not one. I was raised on an isolated farm near Abbeville, Alabama, a small town with a population of about 3,500 people. Life there was quiet, predictable, and deeply rooted in tradition.
As a young girl, I spent many peaceful afternoons reading novels borrowed from the Book Mobile on Wheels, dreaming of faraway places. The stories I loved most were set in the Caribbean—tales of palm trees, warm breezes, plantation homes, romance, and adventure. I imagined myself living a glamorous tropical life someday, though at the time I had no idea how that dream would unfold.
Love, Adventure, and a Leap of Faith
In 1967, my husband Rod had just completed his medical internship at the Columbus, Georgia Medical Center. I had just finished my nursing training there as well. Rod’s life story was already extraordinary—two years earlier, he had traveled all the way from Mexico City to the United States on a Greyhound bus, with only $50 in his pocket and a heart full of ambition.
Rod was charming—overflowing with it, actually. And yes, he charmed me completely. When he asked me to marry him, the idea of a life filled with travel, new cultures, and adventure sounded irresistible. I said yes without hesitation.
From Georgia to Iowa: Life Lessons Along the Way
Shortly after marrying, we moved from Columbus, Georgia, to Des Moines, Iowa, where Rod began his thoracic surgery training. I arrived with preconceived ideas about Midwesterners—cold, reserved, distant. I was completely wrong.
The people of Iowa were warm, kind, and welcoming. My time working as a nurse in a small hospital in Des Moines remains one of the fondest memories of my nursing career. I will never forget walking into the hospital on a chilly October morning wearing a fur coat, two pairs of wool socks, and snow boots.
They laughed and said,
“My Charlotte, there’s only half an inch of snow on the ground—you are not at the North Pole!”
It was only the second time in my life that I had seen snow. The first was on our Alabama farm one January morning when we woke to find the ground covered in white. We were mesmerized.
First Christmas in Costa Rica
That same year, we took our first Christmas vacation to Costa Rica to visit Rod’s family. I was expecting palm trees, turquoise waters, and postcard perfection.
Instead, as we drove into Alajuela, my excitement faded. The town seemed unattractive and chaotic to my inexperienced eyes. I felt like a stranger in a strange land. Rod’s two elderly aunts spoke to me nonstop in Spanish, and all I could do was smile and nod.
This was my first real encounter with Costa Rica—and it was overwhelming.
But then something changed.
Once we left the city and entered the countryside, the world opened up. One thousand shades of green, rolling mountains, fertile valleys—it reminded me of photographs I had seen of Switzerland. The longer we stayed, the more Costa Rica worked its way into my heart.
By the time we left, I knew—I was in love with this country.
Life Goes On… and Costa Rica Waits
The years passed quickly. We settled in Atlanta, Georgia, where we worked hard, built a life, and raised two beautiful children—a boy and a girl. Life was full, busy, and rewarding.
Still, Costa Rica remained a distant dream.
Returning for Good: A Dream Fulfilled
In 1998, our children were grown and pursuing their own paths. Rod retired from his surgical practice, and we finally made the decision to move to Costa Rica permanently.
We imagined a life surrounded by:
- Tropical rivers
- Towering volcanoes
- Lush rainforests
- The deep blue Pacific Ocean
Mornings with Costa Rican coffee.
Evenings with the world’s best rum mixed with fresh coconut juice.
Life felt perfect.
At that time, Costa Rica was affordable. The cost of living was reasonable, allowing us to enjoy weekends at the beach, vacations in the mountains, and evenings at gourmet restaurants with friends. I was enchanted by the Garden of Eden beauty of the countryside.
Politics, Passion, and Loss
Rod, however, missed his work. He was too young to retire and deeply loved his country. When a political movement called Citizens for Action formed, focused on anti-corruption, he threw himself into it wholeheartedly.
Two years passed. The party gained influence but did not win the presidency.
On December 5, 2000, Rod left the house and never returned. He was like a bird freed from its cage, fully devoted to his political calling.
Soon after, I returned to the United States.
A New Chapter and a Return to Costa Rica
I later remarried a wonderful photographer and videographer named Ken. Together, we spent several months in Costa Rica. Ken created a beautiful documentary—“Costa Rica: A Travel Adventure Spectacular,” now available on Amazon.
But while Ken appreciated Costa Rica, he did not fall in love with it as I had.
In 2016, I returned to Costa Rica alone—and I was shocked by how much had changed.
The Reality of Modern Costa Rica
Costa Rica was no longer the quiet country I remembered.
- Hundreds of vehicles crowded the roads
- Infrastructure could not keep up
- Traffic was overwhelming
- Prices had skyrocketed
Groceries I once took for granted—steak, cheese, chicken, even hamburger meat—were expensive. The only affordable shopping was at the Alajuela Farmers Market (Feria) on weekends.
Housing costs stunned me:
- Land: $300 per square meter
- A modest lot: $45,000
- Construction costs up 40% since 2000
- A basic 100-square-meter concrete home: $100,000 minimum
Dining out had also changed:
- Lunch: $15+ per person
- Dinner: $30+ per person
- Gourmet restaurants: much more
Where Foreigners Are Settling Now
Popular areas for North Americans include:
- Escazú (San José suburb): apartments from $1,000+
- Grecia: more affordable, 30 minutes from Alajuela
- Atenas: beloved for its mild year-round climate
Advice for Retiring in Costa Rica
1. Learn Spanish
Even basic Spanish opens doors and enriches your life.
2. Smile and Practice Patience
You may be the only upset person in the room.
3. Expect Cultural Shock
Nothing works like it does “back home.” Accept it.
4. Costa Rica Is Not Cheap
Adjust expectations early.
5. Vehicles Are Expensive
Cars cost nearly double. Repairs are costly. Gas is around $4 per gallon.
6. Security Matters
Homes need bars, locks, and alarms. Gated communities are best.
7. Avoid Confrontation
Costa Ricans dislike conflict and may tell you what you want to hear.
Why Costa Ricans Are Considered So Happy
Costa Rica has:
- No standing army
- Universal basic healthcare
- Strong family values
- Abundant water and natural beauty
- A relaxed lifestyle
The phrase “Pura Vida” reflects these values—a simple, grateful way of living.
Banks, Lawyers, and Reality Checks
Opening a bank account can feel impossible.
Advice: Keep your money in dollars and exchange only what you need.
You will need a lawyer—for everything. Fees are regulated, but not cheap.
What I Love Most About Costa Rica
- The weather
- The green everywhere
- Smiling, friendly people
- The relaxed pace of life
- Flowers, birds, beaches, mountains
Smiles and Patience
Costa Ricans are warm, friendly, and unhurried.
The secret to living well here is simple:
Smile often. Be patient always.
That is the true recipe for a long and happy life in Costa Rica.