For travelers seeking a true immersion into Costa Rica’s wild heart, few experiences compare to a vacation in the Tortuguero Canals. Remote, lush, and teeming with wildlife, Tortuguero is often described as the “Amazon of Costa Rica.” It is a place where rivers replace roads, boats replace buses, and nature dictates the rhythm of daily life.
Our journey to Tortuguero was not just the beginning of our vacation—it was the perfect introduction to Costa Rica. As promised by our vacation planner, Nina Cabezas Creed, it became a memory that will last a lifetime.
Why Tortuguero Is the Perfect Starting Point
From the very beginning, Nina told us that starting our Costa Rica vacation in Tortuguero—specifically at Mawamba Lodge—was the only way to truly understand the country. At the time, we trusted her expertise. After experiencing Tortuguero firsthand, we realized how right she was.
Tortuguero strips travel down to its purest form: water, jungle, wildlife, and people. There are no highways, no shopping malls, no distractions—only the sounds of the rainforest and the movement of water through ancient canals.
The Moment Everything Changed
The magic began even before we reached Tortuguero.
As we stepped off a small bus to board a larger one for the journey toward the canals, a bright and outgoing woman approached us and said:
“I think you’re Ron, and she is Maria.”
We were stunned. How did she know us?
This woman was Ana Maria, our tour guide—and from that moment forward, she became the heartbeat of our Tortuguero experience.
Ana Maria: The Soul of the Journey
Ana Maria was not just a guide—she was a storyteller, naturalist, teacher, and passionate ambassador for Costa Rica’s wildlife. From the first greeting to the final goodbye, she was with our group every day, every step of the way.
Her enthusiasm was contagious. She brought the rivers, canals, animals, birds, frogs, lizards, and trees to life with a depth of knowledge and passion that elevated our experience beyond anything we could have imagined.
She answered every question effortlessly:
- Howler monkeys? Explained.
- Crocodiles? Explained.
- Tree frogs? Explained.
- Birds we had never seen before? Explained.
And not just with facts—but with love and respect for the ecosystem. Her passion infected everyone in the group, turning strangers into a shared community of explorers.
Simply put, she took our experience to a level that would have been unattainable any other way.
The Journey to Tortuguero
Through Banana Country
The bus ride to Caño Blanco in Siquirres, where we would board the boat to Tortuguero, was itself an education. As we passed through vast banana plantations, Ana Maria explained how bananas are grown, harvested, and exported—an important part of Costa Rica’s agricultural economy.
This was not just transportation; it was a moving classroom.
By Boat Through History
At Caño Blanco, we boarded a large flat-bottom boat for the approximately 1½-hour journey through the rivers and canals leading to Tortuguero.
These canals, we learned, were originally dug by loggers in the early 1900s to transport timber. Today, they serve as waterways through one of the most biologically diverse regions in the world.
As we glided silently through the canals, the jungle closed in around us:
- Monkeys leapt through the trees
- Birds flashed brilliant colors above the water
- Lizards clung to branches
- Crocodiles rested along the banks
It felt like entering another world.
Arrival at Mawamba Lodge
When we arrived at Mawamba Lodge, we were warmly welcomed by Mr. Olman, the lodge manager. He gave us an introduction to the facility and explained what we would experience over the next three days.
Mawamba Lodge is basic but very comfortable, designed to blend into its surroundings rather than overpower them. This is not luxury in the traditional sense—it is luxury through nature, simplicity, and authenticity.
The food was typical Costa Rican, fresh, satisfying, and served in a communal atmosphere that encouraged conversation among guests from around the world.
Life at Mawamba Lodge
Canal Boat Tours
Each day included guided boat tours through the canals, led by Ana Maria. These excursions revealed wildlife at every turn:
- Howler monkeys roaring from the treetops
- White-faced capuchin monkeys leaping between branches
- Crocodiles basking silently along the riverbanks
- Brightly colored birds everywhere you looked
The slow pace of the boats allowed us to truly observe and absorb the environment.
Visit to the Village of Tortuguero
One of the highlights was a boat trip to the village of Tortuguero, followed by a guided walking tour.
The village offers a glimpse into daily life in a remote coastal community:
- Small homes and schools
- Local shops
- A strong sense of community
It was eye-opening, humbling, and deeply human.
Exploring the Lodge Grounds
Another memorable experience was a guided tour of the Mawamba Lodge grounds. The lodge features:
- Butterfly enclosures
- Educational exhibits
- Carefully preserved natural areas
These walks allowed us to see the smaller details of the rainforest—frogs, insects, plants, and flowers that are often overlooked.
Wildlife Everywhere
Tortuguero is one of the most wildlife-rich areas in Costa Rica. During our stay, we encountered:
- Monkeys
- Crocodiles
- Lizards
- Frogs
- Butterflies
- An astonishing variety of birds
Every moment felt alive. Even quiet moments—sitting on the dock, listening to the jungle—were filled with movement and sound.
A Shared Global Experience
One of the most unexpected joys of Tortuguero was meeting people from all over the world. Guests from different countries, cultures, and backgrounds came together, united by curiosity and wonder.
Conversations over meals, shared boat rides, and collective wildlife sightings created a sense of connection that is rare in modern travel.
Why You Shouldn’t Miss Tortuguero
Tortuguero is not a place you simply visit—it’s a place you experience.
It offers:
- A deep connection to nature
- Authentic cultural encounters
- Unparalleled wildlife viewing
- Knowledgeable, passionate guides
- A peaceful escape from modern distractions
As Ron and Maria, traveling as a couple in April 2015, we can confidently say this was one of the most memorable parts of our entire Costa Rica vacation.
Room Tip
All the rooms at Mawamba Lodge are excellent. Each offers comfort, privacy, and immersion in the natural surroundings.
Final Thoughts
A vacation to the Tortuguero Canals is not for those seeking nightlife or luxury shopping. It is for travelers who want to understand Costa Rica at its most raw and beautiful.
Thanks to the expert planning of Nina Cabezas Creed, the exceptional guidance of Ana Maria, and the welcoming atmosphere of Mawamba Lodge, our introduction to Costa Rica was unforgettable.
If you have the opportunity to include Tortuguero in your Costa Rica itinerary—do not miss it. It is an experience that will stay with you long after the journey ends.