For many travelers, Costa Rica represents a dream—lush landscapes, warm oceans, friendly people, and a slower pace of life. Among its many destinations, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, located on the Caribbean (Atlantic) coast of Costa Rica, often captures hearts in a very special way. With its wild beauty, strong cultural identity, and laid-back atmosphere, it is no surprise that many visitors begin to imagine what life might be like if they retired there.
This article explores that dream honestly and realistically, using both personal experience and thoughtful reflection to answer a question many travelers ask after falling in love with this colorful corner of Costa Rica: Is retiring in Puerto Viejo really the right choice?
Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica: A Caribbean Paradise
Puerto Viejo is a small coastal village on the Atlantic Ocean in southeastern Costa Rica, near the border with Panama. Tropically beautiful and distinctly different from the rest of the country, it is defined by dense rainforests, coconut palms lining white-sand beaches, and brilliant blue waters. The waves here are powerful and dramatic, drawing visitors from around the world to surf, snorkel, and scuba dive.
Unlike the Pacific coast, Puerto Viejo feels raw, untamed, and deeply rooted in its cultural heritage. It is a place where jungle meets sea, where wildlife roams freely, and where life moves at a slower, more rhythmic pace.
A Visitor’s Dream of Retirement
Hobie Manley of Kiawah Island, South Carolina, shared his thoughts after visiting Puerto Viejo:
“My wife and I vacationed in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica last year and have booked two more weeks over New Year’s 2015. We loved the area and dream of retiring there. Can you tell me about the cost of living? We hear it is now expensive.”
This question is one I have heard many times. Puerto Viejo has a way of getting under your skin. The colors, the music, the beaches, and the relaxed Caribbean vibe can make it feel like the perfect place to retire. But as with any dream, it’s important to look beyond the surface.
A Wild and Off-the-Beaten-Path Destination
That area of Costa Rica is stunningly beautiful—wild, tropical, and very much off the beaten path. It is not polished or overly developed, and that is part of its charm. However, that same remoteness can present real challenges for those considering living there full time.
Puerto Viejo receives approximately 300 inches of rain per year, making it one of the rainiest regions in Costa Rica. While the rain keeps the forests lush and green, it also brings humidity, mold, insects, and maintenance challenges for homes and vehicles.
This is not a place of dry seasons and predictable weather. Life here is shaped by the rain.
A Culture Unlike Anywhere Else in Costa Rica
Puerto Viejo is culturally unique within Costa Rica. The population is largely Afro-Caribbean, with many residents descended from Jamaican immigrants who arrived generations ago to work on the railroads and banana plantations.
This heritage is reflected everywhere—in the music, language, food, and daily life. Reggae rhythms fill the air, and traditional Caribbean dishes like rice and beans cooked in coconut milk, jerk-style chicken, and spicy seafood stews dominate local menus.
For many visitors, this rich cultural diversity is part of the appeal. But living in a place where customs, rhythms, and expectations differ greatly from those in the United States requires openness, patience, and adaptability.
Accessibility and Remoteness
One of the most important factors to consider when thinking about retiring in Puerto Viejo is how remote it is.
- It is about four hours by car from San José and the international airport.
- Roads can be rough, especially during the rainy season.
- Although you can fly from San José to Limón in about 30 minutes, you still need ground transportation to reach Puerto Viejo.
For retirees who value easy access to medical care, shopping, and international travel, this remoteness can become a challenge over time.
Cost of Living: The Reality Check
Many people assume that retiring in Costa Rica will automatically be cheaper than living in the United States. In reality, Costa Rica—especially popular coastal areas—is no longer inexpensive.
Automobiles
Cars in Costa Rica are 40% to 100% more expensive than in the U.S. Import taxes are extremely high, and almost all vehicle parts must be imported. Repairs are costly, and mechanics often charge as much as—or more than—those in the United States.
Residency Costs
Obtaining permanent residency is not simple or cheap. You must use a lawyer, and the cost is typically around $3,000 per person. This is an upfront expense that many retirees do not anticipate.
Food
Food prices are comparable to those in Atlanta, Georgia. Imported items are especially expensive, and even local produce can cost more than expected due to transportation and storage challenges in a remote, rainy region.
Housing
Housing in Puerto Viejo is very expensive, particularly land close to the beach. Demand is high, and available land is limited. Rental prices are also high—again, similar to Atlanta, Georgia, depending on location and quality.
Utilities
Electricity in Costa Rica is among the most expensive in the region—often 50% higher than in many parts of the U.S. In Puerto Viejo, air conditioning is almost a necessity due to heat and humidity, which can significantly increase monthly bills.
Security and Property Concerns
Another serious consideration is home security. If you own a house in Costa Rica and do not live in it full time, you must have someone stay there. Empty homes are often targeted by thieves, and break-ins can result in losing everything inside.
This reality surprises many retirees who plan to split their time between Costa Rica and the United States.
Lifestyle Trade-Offs
Kiawah Island, South Carolina, where Hobie and his wife live, is itself a beautiful and well-developed place with excellent infrastructure, healthcare, and services. In comparison, retiring to Puerto Viejo would likely mean a lower standard of living in terms of convenience, healthcare access, and infrastructure, even though the natural beauty is extraordinary.
After living in Costa Rica full time for five years, I personally found that I missed the diversity, services, and convenience available in the United States. Ultimately, I chose to maintain permanent residency in the U.S. and visit Costa Rica once a year instead.
A Balanced Recommendation
Puerto Viejo is a magical place. It is vibrant, soulful, and unforgettable. But it is not for everyone—especially as a full-time retirement destination.
My honest recommendation is this:
👉 Go to Costa Rica on vacation and enjoy it for several weeks at a time.
Live like a local during your stay. Rent a house, shop for groceries, pay utility bills, deal with rain, and experience daily life beyond the beach.
That kind of extended visit will tell you far more than a short vacation ever could.
Final Thoughts
Dreaming about retiring in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica, is easy—and understandable. It is one of the most beautiful and culturally rich areas in the country. But beauty alone does not make a place easy to live in full time.
For many people, the best balance is to keep a home base in the United States and return to Costa Rica regularly as a visitor, enjoying the magic without the long-term challenges.
If you know anyone planning a vacation to Costa Rica and would like professional help, please refer them to me. They will not pay any extra fees for my services, as I am compensated by commission from hotels and adventure tour companies.
Best regards, and good luck as you explore your Costa Rica dreams.